Wagon Ruts on the Cimarron
By Michael Mick Webster
Excerpt from the REDROAD book
Wagon Ruts on the Cimarron
The land stretches out before me, the ruts of an ancient trail etched deep into the earth. They run east and west, a silent testament to the past, carving through the prairie like the fading memories of my Granddad’s stories. His voice would echo in my mind, telling tales of the old days—when these wagon ruts were the lifeblood of trade between the American Southwest and the eastern United States, a bustling artery connecting cultures, economies, and destinies.
In the vast emptiness of the Cimarron, the trail seems endless, disappearing into the horizon where the sky kisses the earth. The Cimarron Cut-off, once the favored shortcut to Santa Fe, slashed ten days off the journey but demanded a high price from those who dared to take it. It wasn’t just the 60 miles of the treacherous Llano Estacado—the Staked Plains—that posed a threat. It was the relentless elements: wind-scorched days, frigid nights, hunger gnawing at the gut, and the constant peril of roving bands of Kiowa, Apache, Comanche, Pawnee, and Ute. These tribes, ever-moving across the great grasslands in pursuit of buffalo, left no mark of permanent settlement, but their presence was always felt, like the distant rumble of a storm. The land itself seemed to hum with the echoes of their past.
But the trail wasn’t just a passage for settlers and traders. Centuries before, it had witnessed the migrations of the Athabascans, a nomadic people whose journey from Canada shaped the rise of the Navajo. They had walked these lands long before the wagon wheels left their imprints. Their footsteps—silent, but present—were woven into the fabric of the region's history, a story of survival and adaptation.
When the trail veered westward, it opened into Colorado—a land of fewer hostile encounters but an abundance of life-giving water, firewood, and a growing network of trading posts. It was here that trade flourished. This was no mere path across the land—it was the birthplace of a thriving business empire that spanned nations and continents.
The Santa Fe Trail was more than a route; it was a lifeline of commerce, connecting Missouri to Mexico, New York to Santa Fe, and beyond. In 1821, when William Becknell, a desperate bankrupt, first made his way to Santa Fe, he was simply looking for a way to escape debtors' prison. Instead, he stumbled upon a fortune, paving the way for a flood of entrepreneurs to follow. Men like James Webb, Antonio José Chavez, and Charles Beaubien saw opportunity in the dust of this trail, turning trade into big business.
It wasn’t just about the goods being traded, though. It was about connections—international, national, and local. Traders in Missouri forged links with businessmen in New York, London, and Paris. They understood the intricate dance of tariffs and laws, bending and twisting the social and legal systems to grease the wheels of commerce. The names that echoed along the trail were as much about relationships as they were about goods: partnerships like Goldstein, Bean, Peacock & Armijo rose and fell like the fortunes of the traders themselves. David Waldo, who’d been born in the East, “converted” to Catholicism and claimed Mexican citizenship to further his ambitions. Others, like Dr. Eugene Leitensdorfer, married into New Mexico’s ruling families to secure their place in the trade. Even Manuel Alvarez, a trader, simultaneously claimed citizenship in Spain, the U.S., and Mexico—what some might call a businessman’s maneuver.
After the Mexican-American War, the trail became a symbol of booming trade and military freight services. The military contracts, fat with government dollars, became just another line in the ledger books of traders. The once-small network of merchants and entrepreneurs grew into an intricate web of commerce, stretching its reach from one side of the continent to the other. The flow of goods, ideas, and people created new opportunities for all who dared to dream big. From Manuel Harmony in New York shipping English goods for overland freighting to Doña Gertrudis “La Tules” Barcelo, a New Mexican saloon owner who made her fortune through trade, the Santa Fe Trail was more than a road—it was a crossroads of cultures, wealth, and ambition.
Even Black Americans found their place in this economy. Hiram Young, born into slavery, bought his freedom and built a prosperous business making wagons for traders, eventually becoming one of the wealthiest men in Independence. Blacksmiths, muleteers, hotel owners, lawyers—all found their fortunes along the trail, contributing to a vibrant, if turbulent, economy.
In 1822, the trade along the Santa Fe Trail was worth $15,000—a modest sum by today’s standards. But by 1860, that figure had exploded to $3.5 million—more than $53 million in today’s dollars—a testament to the trail's transformation into a commercial juggernaut, stretching far beyond what anyone, even Becknell, could have imagined.
The ruts in the earth beneath my feet, silent and worn, hold the echoes of those who walked before me, their dreams, struggles, and triumphs forever imprinted on the land. Their stories—of hardships, risks, and rewards—continue to shape the history of this place, and perhaps, my own story as well.
Heading Out to Strike Gold in Arizona
From the desk of Michael Mick Webster
Arizona is one of the best places in the U.S. for gold prospecting—rich in history, vast in natural resources, and full of places where gold still glimmers in the bedrock gold sands and even in some dirt around bushes trees and other plants. It's a treasure hunter’s paradise, with access to public lands perfect for those willing to dig deep and search carefully or metal detect for nuggets. For centuries, miners have ventured into the desert, drawn by the glimmer of gold, and even today, the state offers rich rewards for those who know where—and how—to look.
Gold, being a heavy metal, sinks and collects in rivers, creeks , dry washes and even horrendous Spots making them some of the best places to prospect. Sure, some rivers dry up during parts of the year, but that doesn’t mean the gold is gone. With the right tools and techniques, it's still out there, waiting to be found. If you're ready to roll up your sleeves and get your hands a little dirty, here are six of Arizona’s richest gold-bearing rivers—some have been mined since the 1860s, and there’s still plenty left for the taking!
1. Hassayampa River
The Hassayampa River, a hidden gem just north of Wickenburg, has been a gold hotspot for over a century. From its headwaters to the county line, the river has seen countless miners comb through its waters and gravels, but don’t be fooled into thinking all the gold’s been plucked. Fine, flaky gold can still be found in the gravels, especially around Walnut Grove, where boulders dominate the landscape but no clay mud holds back the precious metal. The river was most active from 1885 to 1890, with several washes—particularly around the Little San Domingo and San Domingo washes—becoming key gold producers.
If you’re prospecting near the river’s gravels, be ready for some old-school techniques, but know that you're walking in the footsteps of miners who left behind an untold wealth in the form of gold nuggets.
2. Colorado River
Flowing from the Grand Canyon, the Colorado River has been a major gold source for decades. However, some parts of the river are off-limits due to special designations, and many of the older gold-bearing spots are now submerged beneath the waters of reservoirs like Lake Mead and Lake Mohave. But don't let that stop you—placer gold still lurks in spots like Temple Bar north of the White Hills and the Black Canyon quadrangle, where coarse gold has been found.
Finely distributed gold can be found in the sandbars opposite El Dorado Canyon, and moderately coarse gold was once recovered near Pyramid Rock, now submerged under Lake Mohave. If you’re lucky, the river/lake might give up its hidden treasures in more shallow parts near benches and outer bends.
3. Gila River
If you like wide-open spaces and a bit of a challenge, the Gila River is the place to be. Located south of the San Francisco River, the Gila has long been a favorite among prospectors. The gravels from the river have yielded small but valuable nuggets, especially near McPhaul Bridge and the nearby San Pablo placer claim. Some of the richest deposits lie in the Las Flores area, near the old Golden Queen and India mines, where gold flakes were found in ancient river gravels and alluvium-covered gulches.
Whether you’re prospecting along dirt roads or searching the old mining sites, there’s plenty of gold hidden among the hills and valleys. The gravels here are particularly worth your attention as they still hold fine gold, though you’ll need a good drywasher or metal detector to really hit the jackpot.
4. San Francisco River
For those who enjoy a bit of a challenge, the San Francisco River offers a fascinating adventure. Gold was first discovered in its tributaries like Morenci Gulch, but portions of the area are now covered by the Morenci Tailing Pond. Nevertheless, parts of the river from Dorsey Gulch down to Clifton remain accessible. What makes this river unique is that the gold doesn’t lie on the surface but rather in ancient river gravels high above the present riverbed. The most profitable deposits are often found in thin, rich pay streaks, especially near old mines like the Bokares placer.
You’ll need some perseverance as the river winds through rocky terrain, but the gold is there, particularly where the Gila Conglomerate meets the gravels.Here you may want to crevice.
5. Santa Maria River
To the northwest of Hillside Station lies the Santa Maria River, home to several significant gold-bearing sites. The Mammoth or Hubbard Mine, which once produced substantial lode gold, is located just north of the river. For those in search of placer gold, the Eureka district has several smaller deposits scattered across gulches and creeks, particularly near Burro Creek.
Historically, the area saw gold production as early as the late 1850s, with the Old Placers near the Cowboy Mine yielding impressive finds. Today, though, the river is a quiet and often overlooked place for gold prospecting, making it a great spot for those who like a little solitude and wide-open spaces.
6. Santa Cruz River
The Santa Cruz River is one of Arizona’s more elusive gold rivers. This river, which meanders across the southern desert, has hidden pockets of fine gold, especially in places like Guebabi Canyon and near Mount Benedict. The river’s dry, arid conditions make prospecting difficult, but for those with patience, gold can still be found, particularly in areas with fine particles.
What sets this river apart is its seasonality. Due to the hot southern Arizona climate, the river is often dry, making it tough to recover gold. But for those willing to trek through the desert and get creative with equipment, the Santa Cruz holds untapped potential for serious prospectors.
Gold Prospecting Tips for Arizona
Prospecting in Arizona is not for the faint of heart. The dry climate and unpredictable river conditions mean that not all rivers are flowing with water year-round. For the seasoned prospector, this isn't a setback—it's an opportunity. Metal detectors and drywashers are your best friends here, as these tools can work without any water at all.
While rivers like the Hassayampa, Gila, and San Francisco can concentrate gold, don’t be afraid to explore the smaller creeks and dry washes feeding into them. These tend to hold even richer concentrations of gold as you move closer to the veins. The key is to keep exploring—Arizona’s gold never sleeps, and neither should you.
Happy prospecting!
Mick
